Bespoke Shoes Unlaced – a shoemaker's blog

Friday, 23 June 2017

Tor Boots Part 2

Image: courtesy Peak District National Park

Welcome back good shoe folk of the world...here is the second instalment of our Tor boot story.


Possibly the most scenic Fire Exit



Squeezing the filming equipment and lights in around the machinery




The inside workings of the brass screw rivet machine



A skived vamp


We spent a good deal of time looking at the different last shapes and toe pitches before settling on the right one for the Tor boot....


An original WL boot


Half of a handsewn shoe - 12mm leather insole and sole; standard toe pitch



Half of a brass screw riveted boot - 25mm+ leather insole and sole; mid toe pitch

An extreme WL toe pitch

The chosen WL toe pitch

The finished sample boots are now back from the photographer so here they are in all their glory.... 

Bunster




Foxlow


Higger

Calver

Wibben 

Wolfscoat 


The big question is, which colour is your favourite?

I'm torn between Foxlow and Bunster and James prefers Calver and Higger. Let us know and we'll let you know when the Kickstarter campaign launches.

Anyway, that's all from us for now....until next week, happy shoemaking!

Friday, 16 June 2017

Tor boots in the making


Welcome back shoe fans! As some of you may have noticed England has been having a bit of a time of it recently, so it was wonderful to escape to the country this week, to get our Kickstarter filming under way.

We've been in the heart of the country, in the Peak District; home to Chatsworth House (think Downton Abbey and Hugh Bonneville) amongst other notable stately homes, some stunning landscape and some great people.

After a long drive up and a brief overnight pit stop in the stunning, but vertigo-challenging town of Matlock (it gives San Francisco a run for its money on the steepness front) ...we headed through the rolling hills...and got set up.


As you can see the machines were things of beauty...


We had a tight shooting schedule, which was made all the more difficult because everywhere we looked there was a fantastic machine, still life, composition or texture.




 

 








Below are our sample uppers clicked and ready to be stitched.

By the lovely Helen...


We followed the boots through the factory from clicking and closing to lasting. Then it was on to the star turn, the brass screw rivet machine.

The floor shook as Mike put it through its paces...


Power punching brass wire rivets through a
solid leather sole and insole some 2.5cm thick


This is what helps to give our new winter Tor boot it's distinct good looks...sturdy, stubborn and stylish!

More of our trip next week. Until then happy shoemaking!

Friday, 9 June 2017

Cockpit Arts Open Studios

Once more unto the welt, fellow shoe folk. Welcome back, we hope you have had a good week.

We have Open Studios this weekend here at Cockpit Arts in Bloomsbury, London

Your twice yearly chance to see over 80 designer/maker businesses who make some of the highest quality craft works in the country - shoemakers (us!), milliners, jewellers, ceramicists, weavers, printers and many more


We open this evening, Friday 9th of June from 6 till 9 pm and then tomorrow and Sunday from 11 till 6 pm. and it's free! Come along and say hi.

We are launching our latest ready to wear style the Tor Boot


Made in Derbyshire, these are rugged work boots are built to last using the last brass wire rivet machine in the country. This is a robust construction where the boots are cemented and then riveted together through the sole.

We have inserted a soft felt liner and felted sock to soften the interior of the boots to give you the perfect combination of tough on the outside and soft on the inside - remind you of anyone?


We have chosen 6 heavy duty leathers and contrasting felts.


And for the hard core work boot afficionados out there, we will be offering horse shoe heel top pieces and hobnails as an option.



We are taking pre-orders this weekend for £219 (RRP is £450), so come down and try a pair on.

And look out for our next Kickstarter project which we will be launching in the next few weeks. Exciting times!

We are also selling our Barkan Desert Boots for £199.



And our Winkers Resort Shoes for £149. You can't go wrong.


Have a great week and until next time, happy shoemaking!

Friday, 2 June 2017

New York Shoemaking finishing and Open Studios

Welcome back shoe fans. No we're back in Blighty it's a great opportunity to look back at the New York course. We've noticed over the years just how important the finished look of their shoes is to students...and we don't mean just hiding the odd nick or scratch! 

So we'll be putting together a photo album to illustrate the finishing options they can do for the Summer class...but for now, here's some great examples from New York, inspired by previous students' work. 




Dark brown dyed, polished and burnished edges with a natural finished sole on a conker brown Derby




Polished and burnished edges; a natural finished sole; drawn-on sole drawn pattern, dyed, polished and burnished.



Sealing the sole with a light layer of polish, repeatedly burnished in with fingers and a cloth 




Natural soles and natural polished and burnished edges on a Conker brown Derby


Black Derby shoes with gently pitched heels for a more feminine finish; dyed, polished and burnished soles; dyed, waxed and burnished edges
 

One style of shoe, six different finishes - great results!

That's all for this week. We'll be preparing for Cockpit Arts twice yearly Open Studios events next week., where we are proud to have been selected as part of a special showcase chosen and curated by consummate leather designer Bill Amberg!

Pop in and say hello if you're in London....we'll be selling shoes, previewing our new work boot, talking courses and showing our handsewn shoemaking film here in Studio W9 all weekend.

5pm - 9pm on Friday, 9th June
11am - 6pm Saturday and Sunday 10th and 11th June

Until next week, with more news of our new work boot, happy shoemaking!